Information Pages
1 About Kimonos
2 Japanese Womenswear
3 Japanese Menswear
4 Further Kimono Information
5 Wearing and Folding Women's Japanese Garments - Including Video
6 Types of Women's Kimono. Geisha & Maiko
7 Japanese Eras (Periods)
8 Uses for Japanese Kimono Fabrics
9 Shibori and Tsujigahana Patterning Techniques - Including Video
10 Lots of Great Links To How To Wear Kimonos & Tie Obis
11 Types of Obi
12 Types of Kimonos - Picture Reference
13 How to fold an Origami Kimono - Picture Reference

There is also a lot of information on my Wafuku blog. This link opens in a new window, leaving this window open

I also have furoshiki tying instructions here

You can see photos of the kimono that started wafuku.co.uk here

Obi History

Traditional clothing of the Edo period, (1600-1868), included the kimono and obi as we know them today. The obi did not, however, become a prominent part of a woman’s ensemble until the mid Edo period. It was then that designers, weavers and dyers all focused their talent on creating a longer, wider and more elaborate obi. Obi measurement was then standardised to 360cm long by 30cm wide. Edo fashion was influenced by the design and style that courtesans and entertainers wear. Women of the samurai class continued to wear the simpler kosode kimono, tied together with an obi made of braided cords. Outside the samurai class, women experimented with a more elaborate kimono - the furisode, which is often seen on the Kabuki stage. Characterised by long, flowing sleeves, the furisode kimono was accented by a large, loosely tied obi. For many years, the obi bow was tied either at the front or on the side. By the mid-Edo period, the obi bow was tied in the back position. It was said that this style started in the mid-1700s when a Kabuki actor, imitating a young girl, came on stage with his obi tied in the back. Another reason that the back position became more acceptable was that the sheer bulk of the wider obi became too cumbersome to be positioned in the front of the kimono. The Meiji era, (1868-1912) witnessed a revolution in the textile industry with the advent of electric weaving looms and chemical dying techniques from the West. During this time, a woman's kimono ceased to be worn in the free-flowing style of the earlier days. The new fashion was to tuck the kimono at the waist to adjust the length of the kimono to the woman's height. These tucks and folds were visible and became part of the art of tying the obi.
For several decades now, Japanese women have found Western dress more practical, comfortable and economical than traditional Japanese kimono and obi attire. The trousseau of fine heirloom obi is no longer a part of modern Japanese women's lives. The decline in the kimono industry in Japan has resulted in fewer obis being produced each year.
As a fine obi becomes scarce, many of the best obis are considered collector's items. The most rare and expensive obi is the maru obi. Vintage maru obi is most valuable, as the patina of the gold thread resembles that of an antique tapestry. Newer maru obi, while it is still beautifully designed, does not have the lustre of the older maru obi, perhaps because of the use of synthetic material in combination with silk. You will be paying top dollar for a high quality obi at antique shops in Japan. Some large department stores hold clearance sales several times a year. Expect to pay several hundred dollars for a used obi, while a new obi can cost several thousand dollars.


Obi Types

In general, the obi used depends on the type of kimono worn in any given occasion. Most formal are the metallic or colour brocade and tapestry, followed by dyed silk, woven silk, and non-silk obi fabrics. Brocade, tapestry and dyed silk obi are used for formal wear with the finest kimono, while obi made from raw silk, cotton or wool is used for everyday wear.

Maru Obi: The maru obi is the most formal obi, with both sides fully patterned along its length. The classic maru obi measures 33cm wide. Maru obi with narrower width can be custom made for a petite client. The maru obi is usually made of elaborately patterned brocade or tapestry, which is often richly decorated with gold threads. It was most popular during the Meiji and Taisho eras. Due to its exorbitant cost and weight (which makes it rather uncomfortable to wear), the maru obi is rarely worn today, except for traditional Japanese weddings and other very formal occasions.

Fukuro Obi: The fukuro obi is a slightly less formal style than the maru obi. The fukuro obi was created in the late 1920s. The fukuro obi is made with a fine brocade or tapestry, which is patterned along 60% of its length on one side. The back of the fukuro obi may be lined with a plain silk or brocade, making it less expensive and less bulky to wear than the maru obi. Even though the fukuro obi is not as quite formal as the maru obi, the fukuro obi can be used for formal occasions. The length and width of the fukuro obi is the same as the maru obi. Thus, fukuro obi can hardly be distinguished from maru obi when tied over the kimono.

Nagoya Obi: The most convenient obi today is the nagoya obi. First produced in the city of Nagoya at the end of the Taisho era (1912-26), the Nagoya obi is lighter and simpler than the fukuro or maru obi. The nagoya obi is characterised by a portion of the obi being pre-folded and stitched in half. The narrow part wraps around the waist, while the wider part forms the bow of the obi tie. When worn, a nagoya obi is tied with a single fold, while a maru or a fukuro obi, being longer, is tied with a double fold. Most nagoya obi is less expensive a maru or fukuro obi. Nonetheless, its design can be stunning.

Hanhaba Obi: The hanhaba obi is thus termed, as it has half the width of other obis. The hanhaba obi is a casual obi, for wear at home, under a haori (kimono coat), with children's kimono or with summer yukata. The fabric and design of the hanhaba obi are simpler to reflect its use for daily wear. Some of the more ornate hanhaba obi is made from a former maru obi. Children's hanhaba obi is often in very bright colours. It is often made with stencilling technique, rather than an elaborate embroidery or weaving.

Heko Obi: A heko obi is a very soft, informal obi, sometimes worn by children and tied in a simple bow. It often comes in bright colours with shibori (tie dyed) patterns on it. Men may also wear a heko obi, in muted colours, as an informal, house obi

In a traditional Japanese wedding ceremony, a bride will wear a white obi. In the Edo era, a widow may dress in all white to signify that she will not remarry. Thus, some very old, white obi may not have been used for weddings.