- An exquisite, burgundy-russet iro muji kimono, with magnificent Edo Procession textile art. A yuzen kimono (hand painted textile art), with kinkoma (couched gold embroidered detailing). A very high class, top quality garment. A rare find in this colour too.
-
The Edo procession was called Sankin-kōtai (alternate attendance) and was a policy of the Tokugawa shogunate during most of the Edo period of Japanese history, this law was in force from 1642 to 1862 (apart from 8 years during the 1700s, under Shogun Tokugawa Yoshimune's rule). It required each feudal lords (daimyō) to alternate living for a year in his fief (home territoriy) and in Edo, the capital of Japan at that time. The daimyos' wives and children had to live in Edo full time, effectively hostages. This ensured several things, including keeping Edo safe from attack by any daimyo thinking of over-runnning it to take power, keeping them short of money, since these processions to and from Edo, requiring the transporting of vast amounts of goods and people, cost a fortune and kept the daimyo both busy and short of money to spend on rebellion. They also had to travel to and from Edo along a route dictated by the shogunate.
It is very similar to what Louis XIV of France did at Versailles with the nobles of France.
Each daimyō was also required to provide a number of soldiers (samurai) who accompanied and protected the daimyō on the processions, as well as providing soldiers for an army for the Shogun, should he need one.
This requirement in Japan meant that there were constant processions to and from Edo and they had some good effects for the population, such as excellent, well maintained roads built along the main route to cope with them and a stimulated the economy because many people made a living selling goods and providing accommodation and food to the travelers along the route.
The daimyos' yearly processions back and forth to the shogun's capital were festive occasions, and everyone turned out to watch them pass, after all, everybody loves a parade.
- Pure silk
- Hand tailored
- May have shitsuke, which is large, loose stitching put in to keep the edges beat during while not in use. They just get pulled out prior to wearing.
- Made and bought in Japan
- Type: A komon (all-over pattern, every day wear) kimono.
Condition: Excellent.
Measurements:
Sleeve end to sleeve end 128cm
Sleeve seam to sleeve seam (yuki) 5cm
Length 54cm
Daimyo Procession Iro Muji Kimono
Kimono require a sash to hold them closed. This is always bought separately. Men usually wear a kaku obi with their kimono or, casually at home, a soft heko obi.
Sizing: Japanese clothing is usually of adjustable fit, being mostly wrap-over or tie-to-fit items, so most garments fit a range of sizes. Because of this (and only really knowing my own size anyway) I can't really advise anyone on the fit. Please judge fit from the measurements given. Check length given for the garment, then measure from base of back of your neck down to judge that length on you.
Also measure from centre back of neck, along shoulder and down the arm to the wrist, then double that and compare it with the sleeve end measurement to judge sleeve length.
Storage: Hang up your garment for a few hours prior to wearing, to remove fold creases. They should also be hung out to air 4 times per year, if not worn frequently. Hang your garment to air for a day or so immediately after purchase too, as it will have been stored for a while. The Japanese take great pains to store their traditional garments with the utmost care, which is why they stay in such exceptional condition. Some of my Japanese garments have white stitching (shitsuke) round the outside edges. The Japanese put these stitches in to keep the edges flat during long periods of storage, these stitches just get pulled out before wearing the garment.
Cedarwood or lavender essential oil keeps moths away, but don't get it on the fabric, apply near it, on the box, wrapper, drawer etc. or on a tissue nearby.
Cleaning: Be very cautious about washing kimonos. All cleaning is done entirely at your own risk, as is standard with all vintage garments and items. I would advise only dry cleaning for silk ones and for most synthetic ones, cotton ones may be dry cleanable too but select your dry cleaner carefully and take their advice before deciding if you want to try dry cleaning it. Some synthetic textile or cotton kimonos can be gently hand washed but the dyes can run even in some of those, so consider that before washing but, if you decide to wash, only cool hand wash very gently, do not rub, just gently squeeze the water through it a few times, do not wring, Use a detergent made for colours, not one for whites, as they contain bleaching agents. Do not machine wash, it can rip off the sleeves, but if you hand wash you can briefly machine spin it to remove excess water before hanging it to dry but do it on its own, separately from other items. All forms of cleaning are done at own risk. In Japan many kimonos, especially silk ones and any ceremonial ones, are cleaned by specialists in kimono cleaning, often by a special method called araihari, where they take it completely apart, clean the pieces, then sew it back together again.
Uses: Kimono and haori can, of course, be worn but also make wonderful display items. If short of space for displaying one, consider a child’s kimono or a haori which are just as striking and beautiful as an adult kimono but require less space.
Colour: Please be aware that different monitors display colour slightly differently. Therefore the colour in the photos and description is a guide only.
Additional Information
One must bear in mind that most are vintage items, which I strive to describe accurately and honestly. Most are in excellent vintage condition and therefore look virtually new but all are vintage, even the unused garments, which are or deadstock. A very, very few smell of mothballs or a touch of vintage mustiness but that is rare. This can be aired out and can sometimes be speeded up by tumble drying the dry garment at cool, but it should be put in a pillowcase in the dryer and is done only at your own risk. I have also had success at removing it by turning garments inside out and spraying very lightly with Oust, then letting them hang for a couple of days, but you do this at your own risk, as I can’t guarantee it won’t damage some fabrics. I found Oust to be much better at it than Febreze, even though Febreze is intended for some fabrics and Oust is an air freshener. Some synthetic textile and cotton kimonos can be hand washed but do this entirely at your own risk and only use a detergent for colours, as all other detergents contain bleaching agents to brighten whites. I usually mention any mothball or musty smell, if one does have it, but one must bear it in mind it is a possibility, even if not stated in the description, whenever buying vintage and antique textiles.