- A white ro weave naga-juban kimono. Ro is an light, sheer, airy weave, designed to keep the wearer cool.
- Unlined, to keep the wearer cooler.
- Juban are worn under the outer kimono, as an underwear kimono. They also make lovely robes.
- White collar; the Japanese loosely sew a han-eri onto the collar edge of naga-juban kimonos, taking it off to wash or replace it, choosing a plain or fancy han-eri, to go with their ensemble. The collar edge is the only part of the naga-juban that shows when the outerwear kimono is on. Han eri are usually bought separately, a han eri is a removable collar, usually raw edged at the ends. Han-eri are loosely stitched on and changed now and then for clean ones or ones of a different colour. The edge of this collar shows when an outerwear kimono is worn on top
- Made and bought in Japan
- Type: A naga-juban kimono. The name is sometimes shortened to juban. A juban makes a wonderful robe but is actually made to be worn as an underwear kimono, beneath the outerwear kimono. They are held closed with a koshi himo (soft tie) and a date jime obi on top of that. Unlike outerwear kimonos, juban kimonos are not worn with a length shortening fold-over at the waist, so jubans are much shorter than outerwear kimonos, which are extra long to allow for their length shortening fold at the waist.
Excellent - the collar of a naga juban is usually covered in a han eri, a removeable collar that is very loosely stitched on and removed to be washed or changed. The very edge of the collar is seen when a kimono is worn on top. The han eri on the collar of this kimono has a touch of foxing, which is brownish speckles, sometimes found on vintage textiles, especially those stored in hot, humid conditions like those of the Japanese summer. They may wash off but the han eri is easily changed anyway.
Shoulder seam to Shoulder seam width 63cm
Sleeve wrist end to sleeve wrist end 125cm
Japanese clothing is usually of adjustable fit, being mostly wrap-over or tie-to-fit items, so most garments fit a range of sizes. Because of this (and only really knowing my own size anyway) I can't really advise anyone on the fit. Please judge fit from the measurements given. Measure from centre back of neck, along shoulder and down the arm to the wrist, then double that and compare it with the sleeve end measurement to judge sleeve length. If shown modelled, the woman in the photos is 125 cm from wrist to wrist.
White Ro Weave Naga-Juban Kimono
Naga Juban are underwear kimonos, worn under the outerwear kimono. They are shorter than kimonos as they do not get pulled up and folded over at the waist, the way kimonos do. Only the collar edge shows at the edge of the kimono’s collar, so the collar is usually covered with a han-eri, a removable collar fabric that can be lain or ornate;y [atterned and is selected to suit the outer kimono ensemble. Juban make beautiful house robes.
Sizing: Japanese clothing is usually of adjustable fit, being mostly wrap-over or tie-to-fit items, so most garments fit a range of sizes. Because of this (and only really knowing my own size anyway) I can't really advise anyone on the fit. Please judge fit from the measurements given. Check length given for the garment, then measure from base of back of your neck down to judge that length on you.
Also measure from centre back of neck, along shoulder and down the arm to the wrist, then double that and compare it with the sleeve end measurement to judge sleeve length. If shown modelled, the woman in the photos is 125 cm from wrist to wrist.
Storage: Hang up your garment for a few hours prior to wearing, to remove fold creases. They should also be hung out to air 4 times per year, if not worn frequently. Hang your garment to air for a day or so immediately after purchase too, as it will have been stored for a while. The Japanese take great pains to store their traditional garments with the utmost care, which is why they stay in such exceptional condition. Some of my Japanese garments have white stitching (shitsuke) round the outside edges. The Japanese put these stitches in to keep the edges flat during long periods of storage, these stitches just get pulled out before wearing the garment.
Cedarwood or lavender essential oil keeps moths away, but don't get it on the fabric, apply near it, on the box, wrapper, drawer etc. or on a tissue nearby.
Cleaning: Be very cautious about washing kimonos. All cleaning is done entirely at your own risk, as is standard with all vintage garments and items. I would advise only dry cleaning for silk ones and for most synthetic ones, cotton ones may be dry cleanable too but select your dry cleaner carefully and take their advice before deciding if you want to try dry cleaning it. Some synthetic textile or cotton kimonos can be gently hand washed but the dyes can run even in some of those, so consider that before washing but, if you decide to wash, only cool hand wash very gently, do not rub, just gently squeeze the water through it a few times, do not wring, Use a detergent made for colours, not one for whites, as they contain bleaching agents. Do not machine wash, it can rip off the sleeves, but if you hand wash you can briefly machine spin it to remove excess water before hanging it to dry but do it on its own, separately from other items. All forms of cleaning are done at own risk. In Japan many kimonos, especially silk ones and any ceremonial ones, are cleaned by specialists in kimono cleaning, often by a special method called araihari, where they take it completely apart, clean the pieces, then sew it back together again.
Colour: Please be aware that different monitors display colour slightly differently. Therefore the colour in the photos and description is a guide only.
One must bear in mind that most are vintage items, which I strive to describe accurately and honestly. Most are in excellent vintage condition and therefore look virtually new but all are vintage, even the unused garments, which are or deadstock. A very, very few smell of mothballs or a touch of vintage mustiness but that is rare. This can be aired out and can sometimes be speeded up by tumble drying the dry garment at cool, but it should be put in a pillowcase in the dryer and is done only at your own risk. I have also had success at removing it by turning garments inside out and spraying very lightly with Oust, then letting them hang for a couple of days, but you do this at your own risk, as I can’t guarantee it won’t damage some fabrics. I found Oust to be much better at it than Febreze, even though Febreze is intended for some fabrics and Oust is an air freshener. Some synthetic textile and cotton kimonos can be hand washed but do this entirely at your own risk and only use a detergent for colours, as all other detergents contain bleaching agents to brighten whites. I usually mention any mothball or musty smell, if one does have it, but one must bear it in mind it is a possibility, even if not stated in the description, whenever buying vintage and antique textiles.